dinsdag 2 augustus 2016

Traveling holes from an monochromatic view

Okay, so it's now early August and I still have to inform you of my operations for the HSM May. I confess, I'm horrible at deadlines and great at procrastinating writing posts. My most sincere apologies for that.

So, I kind of skipped the June challenge, Travel, but I did manage a 1780's shift and a pair of stays from the same decade. Though ill-fitted they both are, I would like to share some photos of them.

The stays are made of fine blue cotton (outer layer), buckram linen (two inner layers) and a fine white cotton (lining). The binding is a blue 10mm bias tape and seams are covered with white 3mm rayon ribbon. They are machine sewn and hand finished, pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, 1780's V&A stays. I made two alterations: the front is open, instead of half-open, half closed, and I made two back pieces into one, because the lady who owned the original stays definitely was a bit more voluminous than I am. Oh yeah, and the straps are lengthened and fastened near the waist.

The original stays, owned by the V&A museum.

And the stays where the idea of the straps came from, in possession of the McCord museum.

Now, the shift.

Please don't ask me where I got the pattern from. This UFO has been in my stash for over a year. Made of (coarse) linen and sewn by hand with linen thread, I thought historical accuracy was pretty good. Until I tried it on. The fit was...... Welll, just let's say it didn't fit.

I'm actually wearing the shift frontside backwards, the front neckline was far too wide.

As illustrated here.

Won't work.

Okay, so now I've got nothing actually wearable after three solid months. Well, so be it.

The Challenge: May&July, Holes and Monochromes

Material:  - Shift: too coarse linen.  - Stays: as mentioned above.

Pattern: Shift: not a particular one.  Stays: C&C, 1780's V&A stays, with mentioned alterations.

Year: Both about 1780-90

Notions: Waxed lined thread for shift, bias tape, hemp lacing cord, cotton sewing thread, tacking thread for eyelets and a length of rayon ribbon for the stays

How historically accurate is it? Taking materials and fit into consideration, about 40%

Hours to complete: At least 50

First worn: Not

Total cost: About €20,-

donderdag 12 mei 2016

Stockings and a big surpriseđŸ‘ŒđŸ»

I finished my HSM April, Gender-Bender, already in the last week of April, but lacked the motivation to write a blog post about it. Stockings fit into the challenge, because stockings (at least the 18th century ones) are unisex, generally speaking. So, here they are:
And the little clog detail:
A is for Anne, my first name, G is for my last name.

I used these instructions for drafting 18th century stockings fit to my own legs.

The Challenge: HSM April, Gender-Bender
Material: 0.5 m of t-shirt fabric
Pattern: Self-drafted from these instructions 
Year: 1750-1770
Notions: Light-blue embroidery thread, white cotton sewing thread
How historically accurate is it? Pattern and thread is, not sure about the material of the fabric. Around 70%
Hours to complete: 8 (or so)
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: €5 for the fabric
And now on to the surprise part!

Tatatataaa! My granddad found this beauty while cleaning up his attic, and he thought it would fit me.

A Singer sewing machine, dated 28th of July 1933, belonged to my great-grandmother. 

The inside...

Yeah, all presser feet with functions of which I'll probably never find out where they're used for, because of this:
This is the user manual. As you can see it's no more than a few scraps of paper.

Well, I did figure out which one was the zigzag foot. It moves the fabric instead of the needle.
Side view...

Lower thread holder...

And this was the even bigger surprise:
People, this is all silk and cotton embroidery thread!

And some other useful sewing accessories...

woensdag 13 april 2016

A 1860's corset, or always measure before sewing

Great. It's April 13th, and I still have to publish about my HSM March, Protection. My original plan was to make a 1860's corset+corset cover, which of course didn't work out. The corset is finished, but I made the big mistake of not measuring but only altering mockups. I made four of them. Yes, four mockups. It took over half a year to finally reach this point of being finished.

I used the 1860's corset pattern from Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.

Mockup no. 1

No. 3

When I finally had a acceptably fitting mockup, it was on to the real thing.
Corset stitched, only eyelets and binding to be done.

I self-made the binding, which has been cut on the grain.

For flossing, I did some research.

From Tea in a Teacup, 1870's/80's corset

From an extant 1880's corset

But I finally decided on this pattern, diagram by Sidney Eileen

This were the results:

As you can see, there's a lot of wrinkling at the top, the flossing and boning is uneven and the cups are too low in the corset (on the dressform as well as on me). I barely get any waist reduction in it (26", my natural waist is 28") and it tends to travel upwards. 
Overall, I'm not pleased with the result, but I have learned quite a bit. Such as always to measure before sewing, hence the post title. End caps didn't work out, so I used duck tape to finish the ends.

The Challenge: HSM March, Protection

Material: 0.5 m of ribbed, non-stretching fabric, 3 m of red binding tape, cotton twill tape for the boning channels, 7mm spring steel for boning, busk of 26 cm, eyelets, lacing cord and lots of duck tape.

Pattern: Nora Waugh's 1860's corset pattern from "Corsets and Crinolines"

Year: 1860's 

Notions: White cotton thread for seams, red cotton thread for channels and flossing

How historically accurate is it? Very, if it is about materials, not, if it is about fit. 

Hours to complete: Including mockups, about 50 hours?

First worn: For trying, 31st of March

Total cost: €15 for boning, €7 for the busk, €2 for the lacing cord, rest in stash.

And my dad finally helped me with this:

My dressform finally has a foot!

No kangaroos in Austria

I've been on an exchange to Austria with my class, so that's why I'm so late with posting. We were in a town very close to Vienna, so it's not more than natural we visited the city. Let me give you a short impression.
At the airport, we went there by plane

Mödling, the town where the school we exchanged with was located.

And Beethoven lived there!

Vienna from the top of a nearby mountain (610 m, I'm from the Netherlands, so I call that a mountain)

 Schloß Schönbrunn (back side). Because we all love Sisi, right?

Balcony scene....

Us in front of the University.

The opera!

Vienna's big cathedral, the Stephansdom

And then it was already time to go home again.....

That was Vienna. I really want to go there again, because it's a lovely and fascinating city. We didn't nearly see a tenth of all places worth a visit. 


dinsdag 15 maart 2016

Tucks and pleats all the way!

I discovered that I'm great in procrastinating. I've been working on my HSM February for two weeks, and now it's finally finished. 

   There it is, my beautiful all-handsewn cap.
 I used this pattern of Laila DurĂĄn, with minor alterations for my head size (I have a lot of hair to be taken into consideration). It didn't fit well anyway, but that was solved by wearing my hair braided instead of in a bun covered by the cap. This is now the backside 
And some more photos
    It's kind of difficult to make a selfie without looking.....

   Oh yeah, this was when I first tried it on, luckily it was solved with some pins.
    Not Amused.

The Challenge: HSM February, tucks and pleats

Material: Red striped cotton, cheesecloth lining

Pattern: 1770's cap by Laila DurĂĄn

Year: 1770's

Notions: Thread. Lots.

How historically accurate is it? Quite. It's all handsewn, but caps in the 18th century were generally white, so I don't know exactly. Guess about 80%?

Hours to complete: 6, if remembered correctly 

First worn: For photos

Total cost: Nothing, all was in stash!