dinsdag 2 augustus 2016
Okay, so it's now early August and I still have to inform you of my operations for the HSM May. I confess, I'm horrible at deadlines and great at procrastinating writing posts. My most sincere apologies for that.
So, I kind of skipped the June challenge, Travel, but I did manage a 1780's shift and a pair of stays from the same decade. Though ill-fitted they both are, I would like to share some photos of them.
The stays are made of fine blue cotton (outer layer), buckram linen (two inner layers) and a fine white cotton (lining). The binding is a blue 10mm bias tape and seams are covered with white 3mm rayon ribbon. They are machine sewn and hand finished, pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, 1780's V&A stays. I made two alterations: the front is open, instead of half-open, half closed, and I made two back pieces into one, because the lady who owned the original stays definitely was a bit more voluminous than I am. Oh yeah, and the straps are lengthened and fastened near the waist.
The original stays, owned by the V&A museum.
And the stays where the idea of the straps came from, in possession of the McCord museum.
Now, the shift.
Please don't ask me where I got the pattern from. This UFO has been in my stash for over a year. Made of (coarse) linen and sewn by hand with linen thread, I thought historical accuracy was pretty good. Until I tried it on. The fit was...... Welll, just let's say it didn't fit.
I'm actually wearing the shift frontside backwards, the front neckline was far too wide.
Okay, so now I've got nothing actually wearable after three solid months. Well, so be it.
donderdag 12 mei 2016
I finished my HSM April, Gender-Bender, already in the last week of April, but lacked the motivation to write a blog post about it. Stockings fit into the challenge, because stockings (at least the 18th century ones) are unisex, generally speaking. So, here they are:
And the little clog detail:
A is for Anne, my first name, G is for my last name.
I used these instructions for drafting 18th century stockings fit to my own legs.
Tatatataaa! My granddad found this beauty while cleaning up his attic, and he thought it would fit me.
A Singer sewing machine, dated 28th of July 1933, belonged to my great-grandmother.
Yeah, all presser feet with functions of which I'll probably never find out where they're used for, because of this:
This is the user manual. As you can see it's no more than a few scraps of paper.
Well, I did figure out which one was the zigzag foot. It moves the fabric instead of the needle.
Lower thread holder...
And this was the even bigger surprise:
People, this is all silk and cotton embroidery thread!
And some other useful sewing accessories...
woensdag 13 april 2016
Great. It's April 13th, and I still have to publish about my HSM March, Protection. My original plan was to make a 1860's corset+corset cover, which of course didn't work out. The corset is finished, but I made the big mistake of not measuring but only altering mockups. I made four of them. Yes, four mockups. It took over half a year to finally reach this point of being finished.
I used the 1860's corset pattern from Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.
Mockup no. 1
When I finally had a acceptably fitting mockup, it was on to the real thing.
Corset stitched, only eyelets and binding to be done.
I self-made the binding, which has been cut on the grain.
For flossing, I did some research.
From Tea in a Teacup, 1870's/80's corset
From an extant 1880's corset
But I finally decided on this pattern, diagram by Sidney Eileen
This were the results:
As you can see, there's a lot of wrinkling at the top, the flossing and boning is uneven and the cups are too low in the corset (on the dressform as well as on me). I barely get any waist reduction in it (26", my natural waist is 28") and it tends to travel upwards.
Overall, I'm not pleased with the result, but I have learned quite a bit. Such as always to measure before sewing, hence the post title. End caps didn't work out, so I used duck tape to finish the ends.
I've been on an exchange to Austria with my class, so that's why I'm so late with posting. We were in a town very close to Vienna, so it's not more than natural we visited the city. Let me give you a short impression.
At the airport, we went there by plane
Mödling, the town where the school we exchanged with was located.
And Beethoven lived there!
Vienna from the top of a nearby mountain (610 m, I'm from the Netherlands, so I call that a mountain)
Schloß Schönbrunn (back side). Because we all love Sisi, right?
Us in front of the University.
Vienna's big cathedral, the Stephansdom
dinsdag 15 maart 2016
I discovered that I'm great in procrastinating. I've been working on my HSM February for two weeks, and now it's finally finished.
Tatatataaaaaa! DON'T PAY ATTENTION TO MY JUMPER, PLEASE!
There it is, my beautiful all-handsewn cap.
I used this pattern of Laila Durán, with minor alterations for my head size (I have a lot of hair to be taken into consideration). It didn't fit well anyway, but that was solved by wearing my hair braided instead of in a bun covered by the cap. This is now the backside
And some more photos